Nazinga Game Reserve (and the stops along the way)

My second weekend in Léo featured a trip to the Nazinga Game Reserve, roughly two hours away.  Aboubacar, who works at the Federation, accepted to drive Monique and I there for the weekend.  Koudouss, an electrician from Ouaga (originally from Léo), was in Léo for the weekend finishing up a project at the Federation and also joined us on our trek west.  Before taking off I picked up some “gateaux” (fritters), made by a woman every morning along the side of the “goudron” (paved road).  (It’s probably a good thing I didn’t find her until mid-way through my trip…)  Aboubacar decided to take an alternate route to Nazinga which could accurately be described as “off the beaten path”.   We drove past villages with more traditional homes, stopped at a village where piles of cotton were being weighed, and stopped at a primary school, a particularly memorable moment.  Along the way, whenever we would pass a village and children would see us, they would wave enthusiastically, often with both hands.  At one point, we approached a primary school (there is school on Saturday mornings here) to take a few pictures.  As I was rounding the front of the truck, I looked up to see that ALL of the students at the school were now running over to us!  The kids were mostly excited, sometimes nervous, and a little curious (touching my blond hair…) as we took a few pictures of their beautiful faces  As with the other children I’ve met on my trip, their excitement and smiles warmed my heart.

Nazinga is a game reserve founded in 1979 by Canadian brothers having grown up in the area.  In terms of buildings, there is a screened in restaurant, bungalows for guests, and an observatory by the pond where elephants gather.  We were fortunate to see a dozen elephants in the water upon our arrival and would later see them walk past the restaurant.  They are obviously huge animals but they move with grace, barely making a sound.   At the restaurant I finally had a chance to eat guinea fowl (pintade), which was really quite good.  Later on I joined a number of Burkinabé who had arranged to have a tv, a signal and electricity (which elsewhere at the reserve cut out at 9pm) to watch the opening games of the Africa Cup of Nations (African soccer championship held every two years).  Most of you reading this know that this would have been enough to make my weekend, let alone the majestic elephants.   On the way back we stopped at Koudouss’ village and saw more cute kids and his sister-in-law showing us how the shea nuts are crushed by hand.

Sunday night we got back to Léo in time to see Burkina Faso’s first game of the tournament.  Unfortunately Angola’s second goal spoiled the fun for the Burkinabé, but it was fun to drive along the main streets and see small clusters of people crowded around a tv  at every second shop to watch their team play.

Stopping for "gateaux" by the paved road (essentially fritters with fish - or without, for the "nassara")

Traditional villages

School children running up to greet us.

Piles of cotton.

Loungin'...

More cuteness...

Elephants...

More elephants...

Watching the game : )

Elephants in the morning...

One elephant getting good and close.

Showing us how to crush the shea nuts, old school.

My new best friend (fellow Cristiano Ronaldo fan).

Update from Léo…

A short update today (partly due to my inability to adapt to this AZERTY keyboard in a short period of time…) 

All is well in Léo and at the Fédération NUNUNA.  My contracts are taking shape (as are my ‘traditional” outfits!)   I’m getting to know more and more people in my neighbourhood.  I had the unfortunate experience of losing my bike basket on one of the main roads being a hero and trying to carry too much water.  Thankfully there was a mechanic a few meters away that helped me out. I also discovered a bread-maker around the corner from my house.  The process starts at 2am and ends around 6h30 in an outdoor oven (pictures to follow next week.  And although I’m somewhat housebound in the evenings, our guard, Adama, has taken to explaining all sorts of customs (mystic and otherswise) of the area which has been really quite fascinating.  I believe we will visit his village on Monday.  Earlier this week I also had a chance to visit a nearby pond and see one of the (apparently many) crocodiles living there.  Tomorrow we should head out to Nazinga reserve and hopefully see plenty of elephants.   That’s it for now. 

Pictures below were mostly taken during sunrise and sunset around my house.

Léo and Nununa

Tuesday morning we left Ouaga for Léo. The night before, there was a private party to honour certain business owners at our hotel. We had witnessed the set-up in the pool area earlier in the day and hoped to catch some of the traditional entertainment taking place. Soon enough we were given a pool-side table and treated like queens. I was a bit shy for crashing the party but the manager insisted that we not go out to a restaurant at that hour.

The next morning set off on the main road (Kwame-Nkrumah) which turned into the highway leading to Léo (13km from the Ghana border – points if you make the connection with Nkrumah…;-).

Léo is 2 hours south of Ouaga but a mere 15 minutes from the capital and you are in what our Uniterra representative called “real Burkina Faso”. Indeed, the majority of Burkinabé live in rural areas. Hotels and apartment buildings are quickly replaced with round homes with straw roofs. As we drove along (south) we also saw more and more trees, including the “Karité” (shea) tree, the latter serving as an indication that we were approaching our destination.

Léo has a few government buildings, 2 roundabouts, one market and now two new “nassara” (white person)  volunteers.  There are no taxis and it is pitch black by 7pm (no street lights) so we eat dinner at home.  Monique and I are settled in a 3-bedroom house about a 20-min walk from the Fédération Nununa, where we are completing our mandates. Adiata, who also works for Nununa, helps us with groceries and cooking one meal per day, while Adama, whose sister works for Nununa, keeps watch at night. Souleymane, the son of the owner of our house, lives around the corner and brought us papayas from his yard our first morning. I feel well taken care of.  In the interest of transparency, I have to admit that I was startled by every sound my first night here and wondered why Adama didn’t seem to budge. I have since calmed down a fair bit and sleep quite well now. Also, I have learned a few lessons thus far: 1) one showers only when there’s water (seems obvious doesn’t it) and generally as soon as there is water; 2) better not to turn on the head lamp until after the mosquito net is fully tucked-in; and 3) while spraying cockroaches draws out more of them, cursing them seems to keep them from returning.

A few words about my mandate. Nununa is a federation of 7 shea “unions” and 2 sesame “unions”, all from the Sissili and Ziro provinces. These unions are a collection of groups of shea and sesame product producers (all women). I am still learning about Nununa but essentially it has been an initiative facilitating access to micro-credit facilities and coordinating the marketing of an increasingly popular commodity, being shea butter, and more recently sesame products, both certified organic and fair-trade. It has also contributed to the semi-industrialization of an incredibly labour-intensive process (which remains extremely hard work). These women start before I arrive at 7:30-8am and are still working when I leave at 6pm. Shea butter is nick-named “l’or des femmes” but they certainly work for every ounce of it.

While I have had the pleasure of touring a few of the shea butter facilities, I am not actually making shea butter but instead working with the “équipe technique”, led by Abou, the director. For now I am performing a review of the various contracts entered into by the Federation and its predecessor entity and will be working on template agreements. The team is quite busy but they are mindful of the short term of my mandate and are helping me make the most of it.

Friday I visited the weekly market and picked up some beignets (friend in shea butter…soooo good) and some fabric to take to the taylor.   Getting around is much easier since my acquisition of a bike. Today, Saturday, started with no electricity and no water but we’re getting used to it.  Marama, from Nununa, took us to her tailor at the market to make sure we didn’t get “Nassara prices”!  I’m looking forward to the finished product. This afternoon we visited the one hotel at the north end of Leo, Hotel Sissili, where we spent a couple of hours at the pool (and from which I am updating this blog).

Each day starts with the call for prayer from the local mosque, the smell of burning charcoal, the sound of roosters crowing, and a bike ride along red earth pathways past pigs, goats and school children smiling and calling out “nassara!”. I had great expectations for my first visit to West Africa and I can’t for a second say that I’m disappointed.  Looking forward to week two. Some pics below but more of Leo to follow.

In Ouaga

In Ouaga (this woman's got style)

Federation Nununa (formerly UGPPK) offices

Nuts of the shea fruit, which are sorted and then crushed.

Piles of crushed and torrefied nuts

This machine turns the ground nuts into a brown liquid.

Machine for the torrefication.

The shea butter is then cooked to break down the butter into a liquid state.

Discovering Ouagadougou with the help of the Burkinabé

My journey to Léo, Burkina Faso is well underway! Before getting there, however, I had a 13-hour stopover in Casablanca and I’m spending two full days in the capital of Burkina Faso, Ouagadougou, also known as “Ouaga” or “Waga”.  The stopover allowed me to discover Casablanca with the help of another volunteer and a taxi driver eager to show off his city.  We then took an evening flight to Ouaga, landing just past midnight and settled into Hotel Yibi in the early hours of the morning.

My first day in Ouaga was designated a rest day as it was Sunday and the banks and Canadian embassy were closed.  I started my day with a visit to a large church in the centre of the city, made possible by Théodore, a Burkinabé at the hotel lobby, who was eager to introduce me to the vibrant ambiance of a Burkinabé evangelical church service. While the people of Burkina Faso (known as “Burkinabé” or “Burkinabè”) are predominantly Muslim, the many churches in the city are packed on Sundays with beautifully dressed churchgoers.

Later in the afternoon I went out to explore Ouaga  with two other volunteers from Québec.  Most businesses were closed but we were able to get a feel for the city and meet some Burkinabé kind enough to guide us to the largest cathedral and mosque.  Along the way we came across many curious children, many asking to shake our hands.  One boy, probably four or five years’ old, shook my hand and placed it against one side of his face and then the other.  Children at the Cathedral grounds asked that I take their picture (see below) and then rushed over to see themselves on the camera.  We finished with a walk by the palace grounds of the king of the Mossi tribe, the principal ethnic group in Burkina Faso. I’m told that every Friday, following a tradition dating back to colonial times, the Mossi king comes out of his palace, dressed to go to war, at which point his ministers beg him to stay and he changes back into his regular attire.

After our tour we went back to the hotel for a quick swim, although the staff there were a little surprised that we would want to swim given that it was so cold out (probably down to 29C at that point…).

The day ended with dinner with the family of a friend from university who moved back to Ouaga many years ago.  Oumar then took me to a lovely outdoor café called “Jardin des amis” (Garden of Friends) featuring live Burkinabé music and dancing.  Click here to see a video of some of the dancing. Note: The video is dark at the beginning but gets better.

My first impression of Burkina Faso is that it is full of warm, genuine and welcoming people.  I’m looking forward to meeting representatives of the Union des Groupements de Productrices de Produits de Karité, where I will be working during my stay in Léo, on Monday, and continuing on to Léo on Tuesday morning.

Street view.

One merchant's goods.

Message for the public.

Ouagadougou's Grand Mosque.

The Cathedral of Ouagadougou.

Children at the Cathedral grounds.

Pashupati

I have absorbed the culture as much as possible here in Nepal, but the emotions I experienced at one of the Hindu Temples we visited will stay with me for a very long time.  The temple is called Pashupati.  This site symbolizes both life and death.  We visited Pashupati on a rainy day which made the experience all the more surreal.  The Temple has a river running right through the middle.  Upon crossing the bridge I did not realize that one side of the temple symbolized life and the other death.  We did observe preparations with the customary rituals of cremations.  The male family members gather with one female, usually the spouse, mother or daughter of the deceased.  On the other side of the bridge, from our vantage point we visited the small temples of fertility.  The temples are located in a row and when you look down the row through the side openings it appears as a mirror image gazing down a tunnel of openings through each of the temples.  Nepalese worship at these temples to encourage fertility.  It is a very surreal emotional place.  As a group, we did not say much, we were taken aback at the ceremonial rituals and the depth of emotion we all felt.

The tradition is that once the cremation occurs the family moves to a nearby temple located at Pashupati and mourn for 13 days.  The belief is that the soul is still among their loved ones and they are to mourn and fulfil wishes of those deceased.  The close male family members that have lost loved ones are evident among the population as they will shave their heads and wear white clothing for an entire year.  They will then return to Pashupati, make offerings by laying baskets of flowers and eatable treats in a small basket allowing this to float down the river.  They then cleanse themselves in the river which allows them to formally end their mourning period.

 The beliefs of the Hindu religion allow for mourning but also a celebration of life … their belief is that life goes on and what we know is just one stage of the journey …. perhaps, that is why there was no great public outpouring of emotion … life will continue … it is believed you constantly progress to a better place than you left behind.

 It is also an amazing venue as it symbolizes both life and death …my presence at the   made for some deep thoughts about one’s existence.

Pashupati

My apologies for using images from the internet as my camera is not downloading properly.   This is a little of what we saw when we visited the Temple.

Best Regards,

Rada

Diversity

Nepal is a country with rich culture and diversity.   It has very rich history with a cultural mix that is simply astounding.  Nepal has over 100 ethnicities and over 100 languages are spoken in the country.  Many Nepalese speak three languages, their mother tongue, Nepalese and English.  The languages differ quite extremely from one another and may be unique to a very small area.  These languages overlap somewhat but are so diverse that dwellers just 30 kilometres apart from each other do not understand each other’s mother tongues. Nepal is divided into 5 developmental districts, 14 zones and 76 districts … creating even more diversity.  My thoughts and comments to my colleagues was about Canada, a country settled by so many ethnicities from various parts of the world and it may be contentious as to whether we have as many ethnicities and languages spoken.    Keep in mind Nepal is a fraction of the size of Canada and to think that from region to region there exists such diversity in language and ethnicity.

 The faces of Nepal are very interesting. I have attached some pictures …. Enjoy!

Kids are the same all over the world, a little water, some dirt and a stick … they have found their toy.

Deliverying supplies at Tribhuvan Airport, Kathmandu …. this gentleman is delivering eggs, you see these vendors throughout Kathmandu

Sagun at CECI House … a dear lady!

Mom and Son

Everest Before Breakfast

This has been an incredible day for me here in Nepal.

 One of the sights I was hoping to see while I was here was Mt. Everest …. I had that opportunity this morning.

 My Canadian colleagues and I ventured out to the airport this morning at 4:00 am, caught an “Everest Flight” at 6:00 and were taken on a breathtaking airplane ride of the Himalayas.  Absolutely Incredible!!

 The airline companies that arrange these flights here in Nepal are very organized.  We travel with smaller planes that seat about 80 people.  They fill only half of the plane allowing each passenger to have a window seat.  The climb is quite steep as we are approaching the Himalayas.  The passengers on the one side of the plane see the mountains on the way out and Everest is among the last in the range.  We were given a brochure indicating which mountains are which.  The stewards on the plane all walk up and down the aisle and point out each of the mountain peaks to us.  We were also all able to venture into the cockpit to briefly visit with the pilots.  When I was visiting with the pilots we just happen to be approaching Mt. Everest (really cool!!).

 The mountain range is breathtaking …. We were very fortunate that it was a wonderful day and we had spectacular views.  We had the opportunity to see nine of the highest peaks in the world, the second highest mountain in the world is located in Pakistan.  The interesting thing about the Himalayas is that they are the only mountain range in the world that is still increasing in height as they move along the tectonic plate.

 We were back on the ground at 7:15 am, back at our accommodation by 8:00 am, quickly got ready for work and was at my desk at 9:00 am … pretty cool!

 The last two photos are of Mt. Everest, Enjoy!

Sorry About the Alignment …

Climate Change

I had a very interesting day at work today.  Integrated Development Systems, the company I am working with here in Nepal hosted a half-day presentation for a number of its clients and contacts.

The event was held at the Everest Hotel here in Kathmandu.  In attendance was the Minister of the Environment, State Minister, Secretary Minister and Joint Secretary.  They all spoke on different aspects of climate change.  This is all in preparation for the Climate Change Meeting taking place next week in Durban, South Africa.  Representatives from IDS will also be in attendance.  They spoke of the climate change difficulties plaguing Nepal among which are deforestation, large emissions, conservation of carbon stocks, sustainable forestry, forest degradation … these are only the climate change problems, the list goes on and on.

The presentations went well.  I had the opportunity to meet a number of individuals.  A number of Nepalese government officials, business people and members from various interest groups.  Many expressed interest in Fraser Milner Casgrain and asked about our business.  I also met some fellow Canadians working in Nepal and a gentleman who had visited Calgary and taught for a semester at the University of Calgary Civil Engineering Faculty.

Another day at the office

 Rada

P.S.  Just attaching some pictures, on a clear day, the sun is visible only through a golden haze, otherwise it is totally blocked by the smog in the Kathmandu Valley.  Once you travel out of the city about 20 kilometres, out of actual Valley, the air is much healthier to breath.  Many expats choose to live outside the Valley.  Also, those are our local garbage men picking up the garbage every morning.

Monkey Business in Kathmandu

I had the opportunity to visit one of the most beautiful places in Nepal, the Swayambhu Temple.  The venue of the temple is absolutely breathtaking.  It is located on the plateau of a hill overlooking all of Nepal.  The path to the temple can be challenge, 365 steps up a fairly steep incline, and none of the steps are symmetrical, each one is of different height and depth.   This is a careful climb because if you start tumbling, you don’t stop until you hit the bottom.  Once at the top you are greeted by the beauty of the temple ……

and you are immediately also greeted by the monkeys … monkeys everywhere …. They are perched on the walls, they leap across the dome of the temple and are scattered underfoot collecting morsels of food.  We are cautioned about making eye contact with the monkeys as they perceive this as a challenge and may attack.  I watched them coddle each other, play with each other and entertain the tourists.  It is amusing to watch an innocent tourist eating a snack that the monkey’s eye has focused on and with one leap the tourist is left empty handed.

 Thats all for today, enough monkey business, have to go to work and get down to real business.

Regards,

Rada

Arrived and Settled into Nepali Life!

Greetings to All from Kathmandu, Nepal!

It was somewhat of a long trip … 21 hours of actual flying time.  I left my home on Saturday evening and arrived in Kathmandu on Monday evening.  Our hosts here at CECI were at the airport to greet us and welcomed us with true Nepali tradition gifting each one of us with a Kada (a shawl draped around our neck).  I am settled at CECI house with three other fellow Canadians.  Our hosts at CECI house have been very gracious with a warm welcome and a luncheon held on the rooftop of the CECI house. 

I have been introduced to my employers and I will have a challenging task in the next two and half weeks.  My colleagues at IDS (Integrated Development Systems) have been wonderful and our project is underway.

Kathmandu is a very interesting city.  It is located in a valley nestled in the middle of four large mountain peaks (Nepalis call them hills, to me they look like mountains). The city stands at an elevation of approximately 1,400 metres (4,600 ft) in the bowl-shaped valley in central Nepal surrounded by the four major hills, namely: Shivapuri, Phulchowki, Nagarjun and Chandragiri.  But even more spectacular are the views from a high vantage point of the hills in the forefront and the Himalayas beyond …. simply spectacular!

That’s all I have for now …

Rada